To celebrate the release of his new book, ‘The North Wales Fish & Seafood cook book’, renowned writer, podcast host and restauranteur, Cai Ross, takes us on a sweeping adventure through North Wales’s eclectic foodie scene. From pub nooks to fancy eateries – this guide has it all.
Cai’s book showcases the unique natural produce of North Wales through a collection of restaurant-quality recipes - available to purchase here.
By Cai Ross
One of the wonderful things about coming to North Wales is the incredible variety of things to do here - from hill-walking, mountaineering, beach-bathing, zip-wiring, river-swimming, glass-blowing, playing golf in an underground cavern…or just sitting on a balcony doing absolutely nothing. This cornucopia of options is reflected in the dazzling variety of restaurants around here - truly something for all tastes.
When I’m not writing things like The North Wales Fish & Seafood cook book (oh, did I accidentally mention that), you’ll find me running Paysanne in Deganwy, a French-country style bistro that’s been feeding the fine folk of North Wales since 1988. One of the downsides of running a restaurant is that you don’t get much time to visit all the other eateries around you: they’re mostly all shut the same nights that we are.
As such, these are not my definitive top ten recommendations, more a handy guide to give you some suggestions as to where to book a table after a long day’s….whatever it is you end up doing. Modesty forbids that I include Paysanne, but it is terribly good.
Culinary delights in Conwy
One of Conwy’s many charms is its abundance of independent shops and eateries. You can buy everything you need for a magnificent feast, from the meat (from Edward’s butchers) to the wine (from Vinomondo, opposite) and everything in between, without having to go anywhere near a supermarket. It’s become something of a gourmand’s go-to town too; from Johnny Dough’s pizzas to the award-laden Signatures just out of town, plus two excellent Indian restaurants and plenty of very good pubs to boot.
Fans of high-end dining should definitely try and reserve a table at The Jackdaw, run by Great British Menu chef Nick Rudge. Nick’s passion for all things local is there to see in his meticulously curated menu, showcasing the very best that North Wales has to offer.
Why not explore our Cockleshell Cottage hideaway for a stay in Conwy?
A selection of proper pubs
There is nothing I like better than a long country walk that ends up in a warm pub, and there are too many in North Wales to list. The Garddfôn in Y Felinheli is an especially good local; a testament to the incalculable value of a good landlord. Shout-out too to the pub of my childhood, The Red Lion in Cyfylliog, which is now famed for its outstanding curry nights, and if you want a pub with the greatest beer garden in Wales, you shouldn’t pass up the famous ‘pub on the beach’, Ty Coch in Porthdinllaen.
About 25 years ago, The Brunning & Price pub chain hit upon something of a magic formula, highlighting everything that everyone loved about pubs and cutting out all the grotty bits that put people off. This has led to several hugely popular gastro-pubs all across North Wales (Gresford, Mold, Colwyn Heights, Bodfari). Perhaps the jewel in the crown is The Corn Mill in Llangollen, set as it is on the banks of the rushing, tumbling River Dee.
Places for the whole family
If you have the kids with you, it’s a safe bet that they’ll be unenthused about the idea of sitting stock still in a formal restaurant environment while their parents discuss the recent Chablis harvest with the sommelier. They deserve a treat too but that doesn’t mean you have to suffer in a frenzied tinnitus-inducing ‘Kidz Zone’,or have to resort to a ‘Drive-Thru.’ Johnny Doughs have branches of their pizzerias in Rhos-on-Sea, Colwyn Bay and Llandudno - where they also have a spin-off bar, ‘Johnny Throws’ where you can indulge in a spot of axe-throwing.
Hickory’s in Rhos-on-Sea offers kid-friendly Americana in a pleasingly bluesy atmosphere, and if it’s ice cream they’re after, seek out Fortes, Cadwaladers, Parisellas or the excellent Red Boat gelato in Beaumaris. The best pizzas I’ve had in a while were at Hangin’ Pizza near the train station in Betws y Coed, located next to the park, where the kids were able to gallop away and run off their supper and leave us in blissful peace.
Uncover our Bryn Afon hideaway in Betws Y Coed for a stay like no other.
Beautiful local produce in Caernarfon
If you’re a foodie with a passion for the very best in local produce, you should make a bee-line for Caernarfon, where two restaurants have been making waves and building up a long list of fans and admirers in recent years. Utilising only the very best local ingredients, Sheeps & Leeks on East Gate Street has been stockpiling awards and accolades by the armful since opening in 2019.
Chef Daniel ap Geraint meanwhile has transformed the Gun Room Restaurant at Lord Snowdon’s old haunt, Plas Dinas Country House, into the swankiest eating destination in the area. The afternoon teas here have to be eaten to be believed.
Our Bodfan Bach bolthole is just a short journey away from Caernarfon.
Italianate delights in Portmeirion
Portmeirion is one of the great wonders of the world. The extraordinary Italianate village was designed and built by Clough Williams Ellis, and you can happily spend a whole day walking around and marvelling at its mischievous eccentricity. It will be instantly familiar to any fans of the 1960s TV series The Prisoner, which was filmed there. If you want to know any more about this TV classic, you can listen to my podcast Free For All or buy the accompanying book (oh look, I’ve done it again. Terrible, aren’t I?).
You can stay there too, either in the Village itself or in one of two superb hotels. The head chef at Hotel Portmeirion, Mark Threadgill, has taken things up several notches since he took over the kitchen. Modern Welsh based in the French classics, with influences from Japan is his style and there has never been a better time to book a table and dine there. Be seeing you.
The best of vegan dining
Despite its current popularity, especially with the young, being vegan still means that you’re most likely to be offered the meagre choice of an indeterminate salad for dinner or pasta with tomato sauce. There is hope though in the form of several vegan-only restaurants that have started cropping up to fill this gap.
The Green Olive in Menai Bridge specialise in American-style breakfasts and brunches, while if you want to stock up on vegan food for your holiday flat, Iechyd in Pwlleli sells frozen and refrigerated vegan food like pizzas, pies, cheese, and ice cream. I’ve heard nothing but raves about The Eating Gorilla in Penrhyndeudraeth, which has a fully vegan menu and an emphasis on eco-friendly everything.
Foodie heaven in Ruthin
Ruthin is a delightful market town in the heart of Denbighshire that bears comparison with that great foodie capital, Ludlow in Shropshire. To date, Ruthin has been a little thin on the ground with great restaurants. The excellent Manorhaus was the only game in town for years. However, one shining light was On The Hill, right in the town centre.
Sadly, On The Hill became a casualty of the Covid lockdown, but the brains behind it have not only opened the highly popular Small Plates just down the road, but are now looking to open even more restaurants around the town square. Ludlow may yet have some competition on its hands.
A charming hideaway for two, The Old Piggery is just a short drive from the town of Ruthin.
Bountiful breakfasts for all
A national day of mourning was observed when Pete’s Eats in Llanberis closed its doors in 2022. Something of a Mecca for mountaineers and climbers, Pete’s Eats offered the kind of life-saving breakfasts that could set anyone up for a hard day scaling the peaks of Eryri. The Big Jim breakfast, washed down with a pint of tea was worth driving through the night to experience.
The good news is that it looks set to reopen soon after a major refurbishment. Until the doors swing open again, you can always grab a fine brekkie near Llanberis at Caffi Caban in Brynrefail. Other a.m. eateries worth considering are the Blue Sky café in Bangor, or Llanduno’s Providero who specialise in porridge loaded with healthy extras, or perhaps indulge in a pancake stack on the beach in the pleasantly Scandi-looking Café Notos in Rhosneigr.
We have two delightful boltholes in Llanberis, so whether you’re looking for a relaxing getaway for four at Cuddfan, or a delightful group stay at Mount Pleasant, you’re sure to find somewhere to put your feet up.
Seafood specialties at Dylan’s
Dylan’s is North Wales’s very own bespoke restaurant chain. They have just opened their fourth site in Conwy, which followed their arrival in Llandudno a few years ago. Their restaurant in Criccieth is housed within the rather beautiful Clough Williams-Ellis designed Morannedd building.
The flagship branch is their first, overlooking the Menai Strait. Seafood is the order of the day, making use of the local Menai oysters and mussels, but the pizza and burger selection will prove very popular with some of the younger members of your party.
Discover the Menai Seafood Company for sustainable specialist seafood that you can indulge in at our Brithdir Mawr hideaway – just a stone’s throw from Menai Bridge.
Marvellous flavours in Rhos
The promenade between Rhos-on-Sea and Colwyn Bay has been in a state of flux for years. Issues with the wrecked old pier dragged on seemingly forever, and locals looked on in baffled amazement as thousands of tonnes of sand were dredged up and shipped over to expand the beach, for coastal defence purposes as much as for aesthetic reasons. Were they insane?
Park up in Rhos now on a lovely sunny day, and you’ll be absolutely dazzled by the fruit of all these labours. The beach now looks like it’s been imported from the coast of California and the new pier has been impressively built from the restored original struts. Walk the mile or so along the promenade and you can reward yourself with a fine lunch at Porth Eirias, run by Welsh TV chef Bryn Williams, and enjoy a meal as handsome as the view from your window table.
You can buy Cai’s new book here, which was written in collaboration with chef, Toby Watson.
You can also listen to Cai’s podcast, Free for All, which is dedicated to the 1967 TV show 'The Prisoner' on Spotify and Apple Music.
