Min-y-Môr memories - following in the Footsteps of Kyffin Williams
Fancy staying in the home of Wales’ most famous artist? Min-y-Môr Menai is nestled on the bank of the Menai Straits and is the former home of one of Wales’ most famous artists: Sir Kyffin Williams.
We caught up with Wales’ busiest fine art auctioneer and guest blogger Ben Rogers Jones who hails from the same part of Anglesey to talk about the man, his muse (the beauty of the local landscapes) and of course Min-y-Môr Menai.
Hi Ben, can you tell us a little bit about your connection with Sir Kyffin?
During my primary school days, I lived in that world-famous tongue-twisting village in Anglesey, just over the Britannia Bridge which straddles the picturesque Menai Straits.
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwll-llantysilio-gogogoch, otherwise known as Llanfair PG by locals, is the first village you come to on Ynys Môn (Anglesey). Just a short walk down to the Menai Strait and you’ll come across Min-y-Môr the former home of the most famous Welsh artist of the twentieth century, Sir Kyffin Williams.
When I was a lad, I distinctly remember the moment a friend told me that a famous artist lived at the house. Little did I know that forty years later I would become the auctioneer who had sold more paintings by Kyffin than any other auctioneer, that I would be asked to perform lectures on the artist at his former employer, Highgate School, and indeed, that my company would be instructed to value the artist’s estate in 2006. It really is strange how things turn out – even though I never knew him well, he was in the background during my childhood and has, for twenty-five years, been at the forefront of my professional life.
Can you tell us more about Kyffin’s connection with Min-y-Môr?
In 1974, Kyffin decided to return to Anglesey to live after teaching at Highgate School. In his (amusing and highly recommended) second biography ‘A Wider Sky’, the artist explained how and why he ended up at Min-y-Môr after searching around Lord and Lady Anglesey’s estate for a suitable dwelling;
‘…we turned down a rough track towards the Menai Strait. After about a quarter of a mile it turned sharply, and from a bridge over the river Braint, I could see some buildings beside a harbour. It was Pwllfanogl. The car stopped at the water’s edge in front of a house with broken windows. Inside, the floor hardly existed, and there was no kitchen and no bathroom. A door in the living-room opened into some dark and sinister vaults, a reminder that the building had been a public house before the First World War. One small room had been used as a kitchen and another as an extension of the bar. The house had been empty for six years. It was an ideal situation: outside the front door lay the Menai Strait and beyond woods that grew to the water’s edge, rose the mountains of Caernarfonshire. I felt I would be lucky to live in such a place’
Of course, the house has benefitted from some substantial improvements since 1974!
Where did Kyffin get his inspiration?
Kyffin was a prolific painter and would venture out to sketch the Welsh landscape in all weathers. He is best known for capturing the rugged mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) with thick spaded on oil paints.
After moving out in his tank-like Volvo to do battle with the elements, Min-y-Môr would have acted as the officer’s retreat. A solace away from Kyffin’s artistic front-line in the shadow of the harsh mountain landscape. Pwllfanogl was a place where he could peacefully work his sketches into imposing oil paintings. I imagine that when inspiration was needed to get that final section of oil down on his canvas, there would have been a gaze towards the distant Carneddau mountain range, across the straits, and which can be seen from the cottage windows.
Sir Kyffin painted the wonderful coastline too. Rough Seas at Trearddur was a subject he returned to on many occasions as were sunsets over the idyllic Menai Straits. It does seem that when the weather was too rough for the mountains, he painted Trearddur’s powerful seas and when it wasn’t moody enough for the mountains, he painted the Straits!
Where can Kyffin fans see his work?
Plas Newydd, the seat of the Marquess of Anglesey and Kyffin’s friend and landlord, houses many of his works as well as the work of Rex Whistler (1905-1944) including an 18-metre-long fantastical mural which is as bizarre as it is huge. This National Trust attraction is one not to be missed, beautifully set on the water’s edge, it will be familiar to many viewers of Antiques Roadshow!
The current custodian of Min-y-Môr, artist Sophie Keir, actually grew up at Plas Newydd and has many fond memories of walks along the short to visit Kyffin for tea, spying on any works in progress in his studio. Now an artist herself, you can see some correlation between the two styles.
For those looking to spend a day walking in Kyffin’s footsteps what would you recommend?
Whether you’re a fan of the man himself or just keen to explore the area through his eyes here’s a suggested itinerary.
- Visit National Trust, Plas Newydd
- Marquess Column: the ancestor of Kyffin’s landlord and owners of Min-y-Môr. From the top see the landscape that so inspired the artist.
- Oriel Ynys Mon gallery has a permanent Sir Kyffin Williams collection
- Penmon: a place that Kyffin returned to paint on many occasions
- Anglesey Coastal Path: Kyffin will have trekked along and stopped to paint ‘en plein aire’
- Rhoscolyn: one of many coastal villages on Anglesey which Kyffin captured
- Trearddur Bay: Kyffin made many pictures of the sea here
- Llangefni: Sir Kyffin Williams’ birthplace in 1918
- Llanfairynhornwy: Sir Kyffin Williams’ burial place in a remote church in the north west of the island
- Porth Cwyfan beach – gaze out over St Cwyfan’s Church
For those who are interested in art and for those who love the work of Wales’ best loved artist, a trip to Anglesey and to Pwllfanogl should be on the bucket-list. But to stay in Min-y-Môr would be the icing on the cake… and hopefully my other half will read this in time for my next birthday!
Find out more information on the next Welsh Sale here: https://www.rogersjones.co.uk/en/sales/2025/7/26/the-welsh-sale
Where to stay nearby
- Bwncath and Hebog
This spacious barn conversion is close to the little church in Llanfairynhornwy where Kyffin is buried. With plenty of room for 8 and endless views of the countryside from a private patio it’s the perfect escape for those looking to slow down and enjoy nature.
Find out more: https://boltholesandhideaways.co.uk/properties/bwncath-hebog/
- Ty Cwyfan
For those looking for the perfect hideaway to create their own Kyffin-inspired masterpiece, this fisherman’s cottage is the ideal base. Perched on the rugged coast with breathtaking views of St Cwyfan’s church, Ty Cwyfan is sure to leave you feeling inspired.
Pack up your brushes and book now: https://boltholesandhideaways.co.uk/properties/ty-cwyfan/
