Autumn in Full Flow: North Wales Waterfalls and Where to Stay
Autumn rain does wonderful things to North Wales.
The Afon Llugwy quickens beneath the trees of Gwydir Forest, the falls of Nantcol gather pace below the Rhinogydd and Ceunant Mawr thunders through its gorge above Llanberis. Framed by copper leaves, mossy rock and rain-bright woodland, North Wales’ waterfalls are at their most dramatic in autumn.
Pull on your boots and follow the water. We have paired three of our favourite waterfall trails with a nearby bolthole to return to once the daylight fades.
Swallow Falls and Conwy Falls, Betws y Coed
Water shapes Betws y Coed. It rushes beneath stone bridges, gathers between moss-covered rocks and follows the village through the forest.
Upstream, Swallow Falls tumbles over a broad staircase of rock on the Afon Llugwy. The main viewpoint is easily reached from the A5, but walkers can take the longer route through Gwydir Forest from the Ty’n Llwyn car park. The circular woodland trail covers 3.6 kilometres, crossing steep, rough ground before reaching a bench overlooking the falls.
Downstream from the village, the rivers Llugwy and Conwy meet before pressing through the narrow gorge at Conwy Falls. Here, the water has carved channels and deep pools into the rock, surrounded by native woodland that takes on rich colour through autumn.
Visit after rain and both falls will be at their most forceful. Waterproof boots are essential; keeping the camera dry may prove more difficult.
Stay at: Bryn Afon – a handsome hideaway for 12 in the heart of Betws y Coed. The house sits above the Afon Llugwy beside Pont y Pair, with riverside terraces overlooking the water. From here, paths lead upstream towards Swallow Falls and downstream towards Fairy Glen and Conwy Falls.
Nantcol Waterfalls, near Llanbedr
Water takes a more playful route through the Nantcol Valley.
Fed by the Rhinogydd mountains, the River Nantcol slips over shelves of stone, gathers in clear pools and tumbles through woodland on its way towards the coast. The waterfalls are reached along a circular nature trail and riverside walk that takes around an hour, although shorter routes make it easy to adapt the outing.
Autumn colours gather beside the river while the surrounding mountains rise beyond the trees. At the highest viewpoint, the landscape opens towards Cardigan Bay and the Llŷn Peninsula: ample reward for the climb.
The paths can be wet and uneven after rain, so take care around the rocks and keep dogs on leads through the working farmland.
Stay at: Sŵn y Môr – a coastal base for days divided between the waterfalls of the Nantcol Valley and the beaches of western Eryri. Return with muddy boots, tired legs and the sea still within sight.
Ceunant Mawr, Llanberis
Just above the rooftops of Llanberis, Ceunant Mawr drops through a narrow wooded gorge towards Llyn Padarn.
Also known as Llanberis Falls, it is easy to miss unless you know where to look. A short walk from the village reveals the water plunging between high walls of rock, framed by moss, ferns and overhanging branches. Following heavy autumn rain, the fall becomes especially dramatic; you may hear it before it comes into view.
Its location makes Ceunant Mawr an easy addition to a day beside Llyn Padarn, a ride on the Llanberis Lake Railway or a longer walk into the foothills of Yr Wyddfa.
Stay at: Mount Pleasant – a spacious house for 12 in the centre of Llanberis. The lake, mountain paths, cafés and village pubs are all close at hand, giving everyone somewhere to go once wet coats have been hung up to dry.
Follow the Autumn Water
Walk through the woods, stop beside the water and return before dusk for something warm. There will be leaves stuck to your boots, rain on your coat and, with luck, a fire or pub table waiting at the end of it.
In North Wales, a little autumn weather is never a reason to stay inside.
Sometimes, it is the reason to go.
