Where the path gets quieter: five autumn walks in North Wales
By autumn, the wind reaches Mynydd Cilan uninterrupted from Cardigan Bay, the Afon Llugwy runs white over the rocks at Pont y Pair, and migrating birds begin arriving over the sea at South Stack.
Each of these five walks has something that comes alive in Autumn along the way.
1. Walk Around the Wilder Side of Abersoch
A circular walk around Mynydd Cilan follows the headland between Porth Ceiriad and Porth Neigwl, better known as Hell’s Mouth. It is around four miles, with open grassland, cliff paths and wide views across the Llŷn Peninsula.
Autumn puts more movement into the sea. Waves gather below the cliffs, the wind arrives uninterrupted from Cardigan Bay and Porth Ceiriad feels much farther from Abersoch than it really is.
Pause above the beach and watch the water change colour beneath the clouds. Then turn inland, where stone walls, grazing sheep and narrow lanes lead back towards Bwlchtocyn.
Stay at: Glangors, where the end of your walk doesn’t mean the end of the view. The sea is in sight from the light-filled living room of this house for ten, just a short walk from Abersoch’s beach and village.
2. Keep Walking Beyond Beaumaris
Beaumaris seafront makes a fine beginning, but the path becomes more interesting once the pastel houses fall behind.
The Wales Coast Path from Beaumaris to Penmon Point runs for 4.5 miles along the eastern edge of Ynys Môn. Walk it one way and arrange a lift back, or retrace your steps for a full nine-mile day.
Across the Menai Strait, the Carneddau appear between passing showers. At Penmon, Trwyn Du lighthouse stands in the channel and Ynys Seiriol, Puffin Island, sits just beyond it.
Despite the name, autumn is not the season for puffins. Look instead for the island’s cormorants, gathered dark against the rock or flying low above the water.
Stay at: Custom Mews, tucked along Bryn Lane, just 50 yards from the Beaumaris seafront. After nine miles, light the fire and settle beneath ancient beams and exposed stonework. The pubs, delis and bakery are only a couple of minutes away, should the walk have left the kitchen feeling rather ambitious.
3. Climb into the Colour Above Betws y Coed
Llyn Elsi hides in the forest above Betws y Coed. Reaching it means climbing almost from the start.
Beginning behind St Mary’s Church, the waymarked Llyn Elsi trail rises through Gwydir Forest before circling the lake. The route covers around four miles, but the steep ascent gives it considerably more substance than the distance suggests.
In October, the effort comes with colour. Larches turn gold between dark spruce, birch leaves brighten the path and fallen needles soften the ground beneath your feet. The lake holds whichever version of the sky has arrived that hour.
Look back through gaps in the trees for Moel Siabod. On the descent, the roofs of Betws-y-Coed gradually return between the branches, followed by the sound of the Afon Llugwy below.
Stay at: Bryn Afon, beside the Afon Llugwy in the centre of the village. Forest paths begin close by, and the river terraces provide a front-row seat for all the extra water October sends beneath Pont y Pair.
4. Follow the Forest Down to Two Waterfalls
At Coed y Brenin, the path goes up before it rewards you with the way down.
The Gain Waterfall Trail climbs over the Cefndeuddwr ridge, then drops into the neighbouring valley towards the meeting of the Afon Gain and Afon Mawddach. Here, two waterfalls come together beneath the trees.
The 4.2-mile route earns its strenuous grading. Expect narrow paths, mud, roots, loose stones and large natural rock steps on the descent towards the old Gwynfynydd gold mine.
Autumn adds force and colour. Rain fills both rivers, bracken turns rusty along the trail and wet leaves brighten the darker forest floor. Long before the waterfalls appear, you will hear them below.
Stay at: Sŵn y Môr, where the landscape changes from forest and river to Cardigan Bay. Put something good in the oven and watch the weather make its way across the sea.
5. See What the Wind Brings to South Stack
Beginning at Holyhead Breakwater Country Park, the coast path towards South Stack crosses Holyhead Mountain before reaching the lighthouse and the sea cliffs beyond. The outward stretch is 2.75 miles, with paths around the other side of the mountain forming a circular return.
Keep watch for red-billed choughs tumbling above the headland and peregrines cutting across the cliffs. October migration may bring thrushes, finches and other birds arriving from across the Irish Sea. There are no guarantees, which is part of the pleasure of autumn watching.
Even without a sighting, the autumn light, purple-brown heath and Atlantic wind make the walk feel properly wild.
Stay at: Sandown House, sleeping fourteen beside Trearddur Bay. A private path leads down to the beach, but if you’re too relaxed to make the move, the panoramic glass walls turn the sea into the day’s entertainment from the inside.
Let the Season Set the Pace
With the right layers, a flask of something steaming and a warm hideaway to retreat to at the end, nothing beats getting out for a good long walk in the Welsh autumn landscape.
