Where the path gets quieter: five autumn walks worth the effort in North Wales

By October, the wind reaches Mynydd Cilan uninterrupted from Cardigan Bay, the Afon Llugwy runs white over the rocks at Pont y Pair, and migrating birds begin arriving over the sea at South Stack.

North Wales has not become quieter everywhere. The waterfalls are louder, the rivers fuller and the waves beneath the headlands rather more committed than they were in July. It is the paths themselves that have gained a little room.

These five walks ask for some effort, but each has something that belongs particularly to autumn waiting along the way.

1. Walk Around the Wilder Side of Abersoch

Abersoch turns towards the harbour in summer. Come autumn, it is worth walking around the back.

A circular walk around Mynydd Cilan follows the headland between Porth Ceiriad and Porth Neigwl, better known as Hell’s Mouth. It is around four miles, with open grassland, cliff paths and wide views across the Llŷn Peninsula.

October puts more movement into the sea. Waves gather below the cliffs, the wind arrives uninterrupted from Cardigan Bay and Porth Ceiriad feels much farther from Abersoch than it really is.

Pause above the beach and watch the water change colour beneath the clouds. Then turn inland, where stone walls, grazing sheep and narrow lanes lead back towards Bwlchtocyn.

Stay at: Glangors, sleeping ten a short walk from Abersoch’s beach and village. There is room for everyone, and every damp coat, to come home together.

2. Keep Walking Beyond Beaumaris

Beaumaris seafront makes a fine beginning, but the path becomes more interesting once the pastel houses fall behind.

The Wales Coast Path from Beaumaris to Penmon Point runs for 4.5 miles along the eastern edge of Ynys Môn. Walk it one way and arrange a lift back, or retrace your steps for a full nine-mile day.

Across the Menai Strait, the Carneddau appear between passing showers. At Penmon, Trwyn Du lighthouse stands in the channel and Ynys Seiriol, Puffin Island, sits just beyond it.

Despite the name, autumn is not the season for puffins. Look instead for the island’s cormorants, gathered dark against the rock or flying low above the water.

Stay at: Custom Mews, tucked along Bryn Lane, just 50 yards from the Beaumaris seafront. After nine miles, light the fire and settle beneath ancient beams and exposed stonework. The pubs, delis and bakery are only a couple of minutes away, should the walk have left the kitchen feeling rather ambitious.

3. Climb into the Colour Above Betws y Coed

Llyn Elsi hides in the forest above Betws y Coed. Reaching it means climbing almost from the start.

Beginning behind St Mary’s Church, the waymarked Llyn Elsi trail rises through Gwydir Forest before circling the lake. The route covers around four miles, but the steep ascent gives it considerably more substance than the distance suggests.

In October, the effort comes with colour. Larches turn gold between dark spruce, birch leaves brighten the path and fallen needles soften the ground beneath your feet. The lake holds whichever version of the sky has arrived that hour.

Look back through gaps in the trees for Moel Siabod. On the descent, the roofs of Betws-y-Coed gradually return between the branches, followed by the sound of the Afon Llugwy below.

Stay at: Bryn Afon, beside the Afon Llugwy in the centre of the village. Forest paths begin close by, and the river terraces provide a front-row seat for all the extra water October sends beneath Pont y Pair.

4. Follow the Forest Down to Two Waterfalls

At Coed y Brenin, the path goes up before it rewards you with the way down.

The Gain Waterfall Trail climbs over the Cefndeuddwr ridge, then drops into the neighbouring valley towards the meeting of the Afon Gain and Afon Mawddach. Here, two waterfalls come together beneath the trees.

The 4.2-mile route earns its strenuous grading. Expect narrow paths, mud, roots, loose stones and large natural rock steps on the descent towards the old Gwynfynydd gold mine.

Autumn adds force and colour. Rain fills both rivers, bracken turns rusty along the trail and wet leaves brighten the darker forest floor. Long before the waterfalls appear, you will hear them below.

Stay at: Sŵn y Môr, where the landscape changes from forest and river to Cardigan Bay. Put something good in the oven and watch the weather make its way across the sea.

5. See What the Wind Brings to South Stack

Spring fills South Stack’s cliffs with nesting seabirds. Autumn belongs to whatever is passing through.

Beginning at Holyhead Breakwater Country Park, the coast path towards South Stack crosses Holyhead Mountain before reaching the lighthouse and the sea cliffs beyond. The outward stretch is 2.75 miles, with paths around the other side of the mountain forming a circular return.

Keep watch for red-billed choughs tumbling above the headland and peregrines cutting across the cliffs. October migration may bring thrushes, finches and other birds arriving from across the Irish Sea. There are no guarantees, which is part of the pleasure of autumn watching.

Even without a sighting, the autumn light, purple-brown heath and Atlantic wind make the walk feel properly wild.

Stay at: Sandown House, sleeping fourteen beside Trearddur Bay. A private path leads down to the beach when the weather allows. When it does not, the panoramic glass walls turn the sea into the day’s entertainment: gather around the long table and watch the rain cross the bay from the better side of the windows.

Let the Season Set the Pace

Autumn walking requires a little more thought. The days are shorter, the ground is slicker and conditions can change quickly around the coast and mountains.

Check the forecast, tides and latest route information before leaving. Carry layers, water and something worth opening at the highest point.

Then take the path beyond the busiest turn.

North Wales has been saving the rest of the view.